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We visited Brittany several times during the 1990s
to stay in an English friend's cottage. They had bought it several
years previously as a wreck, and were slowly doing it up, furnishing
it with cast-off furniture from their own home (brought down in
a horse trailer) and paying French labourers to do the renovations.
It was in a tiny hamlet called Bron about 45 minutes from the sea.
Summer in Bron was joyous, but Christmas with 2
small children in a house with no central heating, just a log-burner,
was just stupid. Snow on the beach at Concarneau made interesting
walking, but people were sailing! Mad, the lot of them.
Rural Brittany is like rural England used to be
in the 60s: peaceful, very dark at night, untroubled by the smothering
sameness emanating from the big cities. A very pleasant place to
be.
The French have an interesting attitude towards
road safety. They drive small cars much faster than the designers
ever intended, they only overtake when something is coming the other
way (every manoeuvre fails the Oliphant Hope test), and they drink
and drive. A lot. Especially the truckers. Having said that, they
drive very safely and sensibly on the autoroutes, always pulling
back in to lane 1 when they have finished their overtaking manoeuvre
(this is a lesson that needs hammering in to British drivers in
a big way). Their traffic police only operate erratically and only
pick up foreign motorists when they are operating. I've been stopped
for speeding many more times in France than in any other country.
They are no more stringent in their policing of the law, nor do
I speed any more or less when in France than anywhere else, they
are just xenophobic.
So, when confronted with their (relatively) bad
road deaths per annum record, their response is to vow to put up
more speed cameras on the autoroutes. Huh? Talk about missing the
point. Perhaps if they were to re-educate their drivers out of the
macho "but I've got to overtake here" attitude, give them
cars with a bit of poke that can handle the speed, and clamp down
hard on the booze (especially the truckers, who think nothing of
putting away a bottle of red wine with their lunch, then driving
off to spread mayhem....), things might change. This is a classic
misapplication of statistics: they look at the road deaths (but
not where they occur: on blind bends on twisty A-roads, at the edges
of towns, after the cafés have shut), and decide to clamp
down on speeding on the autoroutes: the safest roads in the country
to speed on. Unbelievable. Obviously John Prescott's been over there.
"Eeh chaps, now what you want is some radar traps; our Gatso
guys can sell you them; put them on't motorways, that'll solve t't
problems....".
I spy a political Agenda here, mainly aimed at catching more speeding
German, Dutch and English drivers on the Autoroutes to maximise
their income.
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| Despite
very strict hygiene rules laid down by the Government about having
dogs in restaurant, they all take their ghastly little lap dogs
(toy poodles and chihuahuas) in, and feed them at the tables. Look,
chaps, proper dogs come up to above your knees and have long hair.
Anything that doesn't meet both criteria is not a dog but a rat.
The beaches are similarly affected: these little
rats pooh anywhere and everywhere. But the beaches are well-tended
and raked regularly, and very well-used. Interestingly the French
have a larger "personal space" built-in (because they
live in a less densely-populated country?) and don't camp so close
to you on the beach as the English do.
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France, love of food is considered a central part of life: they
have a carefully-groomed reputation as the world's gastronomic experts.
But actually the food can be unadventurous: a lot of red meat and
red wine: a hell of a lot of garlic and lots of French attitude.
They eat anything vaguely carnivorous so strange things do turn
up but, on the whole I think English fare to be more adventurous
because we feel our own cuisine to be so unworthy we are constantly
borrowing from other cultures.
They do have good food. Wherever we go in the world
Nessa has a simple attitude to choosing a restaurant to eat in (being
a professional chef): we always eat where the locals eat.
We have eaten in some bizarre-looking places, but (almost) universally
we have had excellent food wherever we have travelled. The most
notable exception has to be a Vietnamese restaurant in Fulham, next
to the Tube Station, where despite being full of Vietnamese clientelle,
the food was simply inedible.
Unfortunately, many small French Auberges (where
the best food and wine is to be had) don't take Visa. So we once
got stranded in a small Auberge with a simply huge bill, and no
cash. The patron shrugged his shoulders, opened a bottle of wine,
kept our wives and children hostage, and pointed us at the nearest
cash point. Obviously a well-practiced manoeuvre...
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visited several French chateaus, which are universally more interesting
than English country houses. They tend to have been been used
by the Gestapo in WWII, which adds a little frisson, and always
have interesting architecture, history and grounds. We visited
one that had had a V-1 through the roof in 1944. They had on display
a photo showing the hole: that was more interesting to me than
100 suits of armour or paintings.
Brittany has beautiful rivers, which run over
weirs and dams. They are often bigger, France being the largest
country in Europe and having a lot of area to drain, than equivalent
rivers in Britain. Towpaths along these rivers are well maintained
and may be cycled upon.
The French seem to enjoy their outdoors more
than we do partly, I suspect, because they have a better climate
and more room than we do.
B ut they don't hide from their climate, like the Americans do.
They embrace it, with outside cafés, outside restaurants,
many more outside pursuits than we have, and generally a more
joyous attitude towards Nature. And of course the women go topless
on the beach which can be very attractive, but as often can be
very unattractive....
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