| Brussels
is not my idea of a normal holiday destination (not hot enough,
too urban), but my old friend Beverley lived there, was getting
married, and had invited us to her wedding, so not being ones to
turn down an invitation (and free booze!), we trundled over on the
EuroStar for a long weekend in xxx 19xxx.
The EuroStar will, one day, be a great experience.
However, it has been the subject of sufficient British Government
inertia and petty-mindedness that much of it's advantage has been
pissed away.
The poor thing starts at Waterloo of all places (entirely the wrong
side of London), trundles over the railway equivalent of Spaghetti
junction and through South London back gardens at 40mph along a
single-track line that hasn't been used since the Beeching cuts
and had it's last set of rails and signals installed in 1949.
When finally free of London, it joins the Folkestone Main Line ("ooh
er, 4 lines...."), and accelerates to the dizzy speed of 55mph
until the mouth of the Tunnel, where it accelerates to 75mph.
Only once through the Tunnel and out in to France does it get out
of first gear. I'd never been 186mph on a train before. It's like
flying very, very close to the ground. But very smooth. Why can't
we do this in the UK?
And whilst on the subject, why does the EuroStar only go to London
(and not any points North of London, for no readily apparent reason)?
This despite the train-maintenance facility being at Wormwood Scrubs
near the M40. Huh?
We invented the railway, and have entirely lost
the plot: it is a viable alternative over long-distances to the
aeroplane only if the speeds and costs are equivalent. That means
very fast trains, fast lines, good signalling and good maintenance,
all of which are entirely absent from the UK network.
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| Brussels
is a fascinating place. It has very little really interesting history
and has been substantialy neutral in the making of the history of
Europe, which explains why it was chosen as the site of The European
Parliament. Apart from the Mannekin Pis (the little boy who pees
a fountain) and the Science Park with the big aluminium balls, most
people have very little idea of what Brussels looks like.
Commerce is dominated by the expense accounts of the European Parliament;
thus it is not a cheap place to visit. Eating is expensive, travel
is expensive, houses are expensive, I don't doubt garages are expensive
(all those fully-expensed cars). But it is not overtly flash: there
is not the commercial extravagance you see in similar cities in
the US.
The public transport system is excellent: during the 1940,50s and
60s they ripped up all the main roads and buried tube lines under
them. The trains are large, comfortable, prompt and extremely accelerative.
It is an object lesson in how London Transport should be run. Bob
Kiley is LT's last great hope to rescue London's crumbling transport
infrastructure, and now the political wrangling is over I hope Ken
gives him a very free hand.
In addition to the tubes, they have trams which run down the centres
of most of the major roads. Like Amsterdam, this makes for unbelievably
complex traffic-light systems at major intersections, especially
as pedestrian and cycle lights are incorporated. Light and airy,
and exhaust plume-free, the trams are a good solution to overground
transport. Brussels is a good example of a city making the public
transport infrastructure so good that people don't need to drive
in. London, take heed.
Cars are allowed in to central Brussels unimpeded (and the roads
are good) but Brussels does not have the jams we see in London.
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| The
food in Brussels is very good, but no bargains are to be had.
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